A Stroll around the village

Lugnano is well worth a visit not only to see Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, dating back to the XII century, but also to explore its narrow streets and hidden niches and to take in the unexpected glimpses of outstanding panoramic views over the surrounding countryside. The historical centre with its unmistakable medieval imprint has remained intact till this day. To be noted are the ancient town walls and the remains of several towers, the most prominent of which is the perfectly intact "Torre Palombara", a typical medieval tower surmounted by a white dove sculpted in stone. According to legend the tower was built because doves saved Lugnano by warning the local inhabitants of approaching enemy forces. Although not very credible there may well be some grain of truth to this legend. Indeed, it is much more likely that it was used as part of the defence system as this was where carrier pigeons were bred and kept. The pigeons provided the fastest mode of communication particularly with Orvieto.

The village is dominated by Palazzo Vannicelli in Piazza della Rocca, the large stately buildings of the two Convents located at the southernmost point of the village, and Palazzo Pennone, the most formidable of all, in the centre. To discover and appreciate the charm and richness of this town in miniature it is best to go round on foot entering by way of the Medieval Gateway. A typical elliptical road leads up to the heart of the village where one can discover charming shortcuts that beckon one through archways and up and down mysterious flights of ancient steps.

Viale Regina Margherita leading to Piazza della Rocca provides the only means of access to the village. From here one follows the road down to Piazza Santa Maria and its renowned Collegiate Church. Built in elegant Romanesque forms, the "Collegiata" is one of the finest iconographical and architectural examples of the Romanesque style in existence today

To the right of the Collegiata a ramp of steps leads down to via Garibaldi and the Gateway. This Gateway is part of the town defence wall built on the orders of Pope Leo IV in 847-849 and subsequently restored in the latter part of the fifteenth century on the orders of Pope Pius II Piccolomini whose family crest is carved and immortalized on a stone tablet.

The town walls have survived the passage of time and made more interesting by a number of houses whose exteriors form an intermittent part of this structure with their kitchen gardens or Loggias as in the "Logge" district.

Entering on the left, one comes upon a small "piazzetta" or square which at one time was paved in bricks with its well which providing a ready means of refreshment for those entering the village. From here there are two possible routes, the first is to follow the downward slope in the direction of the "Logge" district, the second is to climb back up from via Duca degli Abruzzi, a typical elliptical roadway where the houses with their large arched portals are joined together as if to keep warm and sustain each other's bulk. Both routes are intersected with glimpses of characteristic vistas, alleyways and flights of steps that are here one moment and gone the next.

At the end of via Duca degli Abruzzi one arrives before the main entrance to the former Convento dell'Annunziata established in 1576 thanks to the efforts of the local community. Originally, the nuns belonged to the Augustinian order but later on having adopted the rule of Saint Benedict they became BenedictinesThe fa�çade has been recently restored. A little further on one comes across the Church of Santa Chiara in piazza Marconi, forming part of the Clarisse monastery which was established in Lugnano in 1470. Today, it is home to the Maestre Pie Venerini nursery school and its teachers. From here one follows via Umberto I the main village street which is dominated by the massive palazzo Ridolfi-Farnese known as the Pennone, the Municipal building.The fa�çade has been recently restored. A little further on one comes across the Church of Santa Chiara in piazza Marconi, forming part of the Clarisse monastery which was established in Lugnano in 1470. Today, it is home to the Maestre Pie Venerini nursery school and its teachers. From here one follows via Umberto I the main village street which is dominated by the massive palazzo Ridolfi-Farnese known as the Pennone, the Municipal building.

On the left, a magnificent archway forms a curtain to the tiny square or "piazzetta" of Campo dei Fiori, one of the most beautiful sights in the historical centre. Heading down towards via Campo dei Fiori one reaches the gardens of the former Ungari kitchen garden, one of the best places to enjoy a panoramic view of the Lower Tiber Valley. From here one can see Alviano Castle and Lake, and the hook of the Tiber. Further south one can make out the majestic Cimini mountains and the distant Mount Soratte in the direction of Rome.

Lugnano stands on a rocky hill north by north-east sheltered by an easily accessible and constantly green mountain range. From the top of its ancient town walls it is possible to make out the river Tiber that laps its lands and savour a wonderful view of the valley that takes its name. This mainly hilly region covers an area of about 3000 hectares with cereals, vineyards and olive groves that produce extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality. Here there is good clean air and a mild climate.

In Roman times, Lugnano was certainly one of the most important centres in the so-called "agro-amerino-romano" region which presumably extended from the Via Amerina to Guardea. This has all been well-documented by archaeological discoveries, the numerous finds are kept in an Antiquarium, (della of the Poggio Gramignano Roman villa, and in Latin literature (this area was referred to in the works of Pliny the Younger. Lugnano experienced a remarkable period of growth and development during the early and late Middle Ages, becoming a municipality around the year 1000. From the XI century onwards, many names appear of those who were lords of Lugnano: dukes of Montemarte (around the year 1000), then the counts Bovaciani di Todi (1147), a certain viscount Guido without a name (1204), a viscount Tebaldo Vagliante (1216), the Orsini (during the early part of the XIV century), and Tommaso di Alviano (1370). In actual fact these important people were regarded as "defensores" (guardians), to whom the Popes entrusted the defence of their lands and territories. The Popes never ceased to be the Lords and landlords of Lugnano lands which formed part of Saint Peter's patrimony.

Whether allied or subordinate to the town of Orvieto, Lugnano followed the changing fortunes in the conflict between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, particularly against ghibelline Todi which was supported by Amelia and the Lords of Alviano, the owners of Alviano, Guardea and Attigliano. The victory of the Lugnanesi and the Orvietans against Todi and Amelia that had attacked Lugnano is documented by a papal bull issued by Gregory IX (1 April 1239). The expansionist aims of Todi for the control of the Tiber caused Lugnano to become isolated with only one means of exit in the direction of Orvieto and the castles on the opposite side of the Tiber.

In 1449 on the orders of Pope Pius II (Enea Silvio Piccolomini) the walls to the "Terra di Lugnano" (Lugnano territory) were restored but even so this expense was borne by the Community. In 1497 Bartolomeo d'Alviano plundered and destroyed the "Terra di Lugnano". This action was again repeated in 1502 by Bartolomeo's brothers, the abbot of S. Valentino, Bernardino and Aloisio of Alviano. Notwithstanding this, the Community reacted and under the revolutionary spirit of Pope Julius II a compendium of the Statute was provided regulations dating back to the XI century - the Charter of the "Terra di Lugnano" (1508). This Charter covered and governed every aspect of social life, ranging from interrelations between the Community and individuals right down to the minutest details of everyday life, work, animals and territory. This treasure of civilisation has been translated and is now available in a text published by the Lugnanese scholar Terzo Pimpolari.

Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta

This jewel of the Romanesque style dates back to the XI or XII century and is mentioned in all good history of art publications. Built over a IX century construction it has a fa�çade made up of a five columned pronaos. The rib supported vault is open at the sides and metopes depicting the four Evangelists and some mosaic work by the Cosmati brothers are to be seen above the five Roman arches (archi a sesto acuto?). In the uppermost part there are two oculi and a double wheeled rose window in the traditional Umbrian style. This in turn is surmounted by a smaller rose-window surrounded by seven majolicas and an eagle on the top of the roof. The three-naved interior is rich in variously ornated columns and capitals.

. The mosaic flooring is in the Alexandrian-Cosmatesque style. The crypt with an original "Schola Cantorum" in front of it houses an alabaster Crucifix dating back to the XVI century to which miraculous properties are attributed. There are also numerous works of great artistic value in the church: a triptych by Alunno in the apse, a Crucifix of the Giottesca school which unfortunately was recently stolen and the "Beheading of Saint John the Baptist" by Livio Agresti in the Chapel. Also not to be overlooked is the antique organ of exquisite workmanship built by C. Werler in 1756 and recently restored by the Carit Foundation.

Palazzo Pennone

This three storey rectangular building is curiously cut in two by a Gallery of the same name. The Palazzo corners, balusters and the masonry of the portals are in travertine stone. This building is known as the Palazzo Ridolfi-Farnese in memory of the cardinal governors of Lugnano. The name Pennone would seem to refer to the evocative image of the yard of a ship; as the highest point in Lugnano the palazzo soars majestically over the village. This palazzo was built around 1650, probably on the site of the old municipal building, Church of San Pietro and the Chancellery.

However, the origin of this name lies in the fact that the first owner or buyer of the Palazzo was Antonio Pennoni. Later, the property passed to the Pannicelli family, whose family crest in wrought iron is still to be seen above the well. Until the eighteenth century, the palazzo was the residence for the Governor of the Apostolic See, subsequently it was used as a granary, mill, and silkworm breeding centre until falling into total abandon and neglect. Having been recently restored it is now the town council building.

Church and Convent of San Francesco

The Church was built in 1229 on the spot where the Saint had preached and carried out a miracle in 1212. There is a fresco inside the church depicting this miracle in which the Saint uses a duck to free a child savaged by a wolf. This fresco has been recently restored to its original state. During restoration work in or around the seventeenth century, the fresco had been repainted in a different colour using casein tempera that not only changed the colour of some of the components in the painting but also resulted in the addition of a landscape scene in the background, thus reflecting the artistic taste of that period. Following several tests to remove the retouched part using the "buon fresco" technique there appeared an entire fresco dating back to the fourteenth century showing a simplified scene with Giottesque particulars and tenets. A rare fresco depicting the chief Franciscan martyrs can be seen inside the convent.

The Convent flourished during the seventeenth century. Blessed Gonella da Norcia died here on 22 June 1540. In 1608 the fine cloister was built and embellished with a series of elegant columns in travertine stone and frescoes showing the life of Saint Francesco. The belfry tending towards the baroque style was built in 1680 and can still be admired today. Until 1930 the convent was a flourishing religious centre. In 1988, the Saint Francesco Association ("Associazione san Francesco") had the church roof redone, this work was followed by the removal of the granolithic floor put down in 1950, thus enabling the old terracotta brick floor to return to its former splendour. In 2004, a beautiful altar was built and the old walnut entrance door to the church was restored in memory of Mario Tessicini, the first President of the Saint Francesco Association.

The "Fabbrica"

The "Fabbrica" may be considered as the symbol or memorial to the agricultural economy and of the attempts to bring industry to Lugnano. Built at the beginning of the twentieth century, probably by Count Giovanni Vannicelli-Casoni, according to plans drawn up by the Engineer Paolo Zampi of Orvieto. The structure is typical of the industrial architecture at that time. Around 1920 the building was used by Count Filippo Pannicelli as a factory known as Helios to produce light-bulbs, but this was subsequently wound up in 1922. Thereafter it housed a millstone (una mola) and a pasta factory that was provided with electric generators, this too lasted only a short time. Following the bankruptcy of the Pannicelli, the "Fabbrica" became the property of Ottorino Pimpinelli, and subsequently that of Santori who used it as an agricultural centre: oil milling , cellar, and as a warehouse for grains and cereals. RAS the following owner used it for the same purposes.

In the 1990s the Commune of Lugnano acquired it and partially renovated it with a view to using it for mainly cultural purposes. The "Fabbrica" is to be not only a cultural and recreational centre but also as a means for promoting tourism in the village. It is about to take in the Muncipal Antiquarium, recently transformed into a proper museum whose contents consist mainly of important finds from the Roman Villa of Poggio Gramignano; The rich historical and notarial archive of Lugnano of which the ancient municipal charter, "Statuta Communitatis Terrae Lugnani" of 1508 forms part; an exhibition hall, conference rooms and other means to promote local tourism.

Poggio Gramignano Country Villa

Enjoying a dominant position on the top of a hillock overlooking the Tiber Valley there are to be seen the remains of a large country villa dating back to the first century BC. As from II century BC the Roman nobles were in the habit of establishing villas, that is, country homes that were also farms. In 1988, Professor Soren of the University of Arizona working in collaboration with the Pro-Loco and the Lugnano town council began excavation work at Poggio Gramignano. The wealth and complexity of the structures recovered, and not least the beauty and quality of the multicoloured mosaic flooring that has been brought to light indicate that this was a large country villa producing agricultural produce. In 1989, deeper excavation work was carried out on the western side of the villa. Hundreds of animal bones and tiny human bones were found. It would appear that having been abandoned and left to rack and ruin in the II century AD the villa was probably used once again but as a cemetery in the V century AD. Five small and medium-sized rooms with partially collapsed walls had been filled from the floor upwards as a burial place for 47 children.

This raises the obvious question as to why the children were buried in a place so far removed from the adults. In Ancient Rome, children were not buried in cemeteries. The Poggio Gramignano century was only used for a very short period of time; the most recent earthenware pottery dates back to the middle of the V century AD. Most of the corpses on the lower layers were buried individually while those found on the higher layers were buried in groups. It would appear that this cemetery was filled in a matter of days.

This form of burial suggests that there was an epidemic which initially caused only a few deaths but then quickly spread resulting in the death of an ever increasing number of children. It is impossible to say what the consequences of this were for the adults until such time that their tombs are also found. The remains of the villa are described and set out in an illustrated historical publication of international renown edited by "L'Erma" of Bretschneider (Rome 1999, pp. 690). This book by David and Noelle Soren entitled "A Roman villa and a late Roman infant cemetery" is a work of great importance and rather than just giving the final word on the Poggio Gramignano villa archaeological complex of Lugnano in Teverina it brings this Umbrian historical site into the international limelight. The archaeological finds are kept at the municipal museum in the town hall awaiting transfer to their final home at the "Fabbrica".

Church of Santa Maria del Ramo / di Ramici

Lungo la strada che porta ad Attigliano, immersa nella campagna lugnanese si trova la chiesetta di Santa Maria del ramo o di Ramici. Off the road leading to Attigliano and set right in the midst of the Lugnanese countryside one finds the tiny church of Santa Maria del Ramo/ di Ramici. The dirt track leading to this small shrine lies off the Lugnano- Attigliano provincial road and winds its way down into open field land with the thicket of Cerreto on the right and the northernmost part of Poggio Gramignano on the left.

This tiny church rests on a hillock surrounded on three sides by a sharp downward slope, at the base of which there winds the "Molinaccio" ditch

A truly isolated and tranquil spot in the midst of nature surrounded by cypress trees, within a well-kept area that provides the perfect destination for a trip into the country. Much of the credit for this care is due to the Ramici Committee ( "Comitato di Ramici") who carry out their commitment with zeal and enthusiasm. The Shrine was built at the beginning of the fifteenth century in honour of the image of a Madonna that according to legend was miraculously found by a young shepherdess in the branches of an oak tree.

For about 600 years the Lugnanese have held a special devotion to this image. Even to this day, the walls of the church are covered in votive offerings in testimony of graces received or as prayers for help in times of danger or difficulty. Every year on 12 May a day of "festa" or celebration is held here. The entire village transfers down to the shrine with some members even making their way on foot. The religious and secular aspects are combined in a great festa involving the whole community.

Spa Inspired Wellness

Close to the Tiber, the sulphurous waters of "Castello di Ramici" gush forth. This is sulphurous-salse sulphate alcaline-earthy water. (acque sulfuree-salse solfato alcalino-terrose)?. This spot can be arrived at by car following the road to Attigliano or alternatively by means of a country road of which only the first part is covered in gravel. To arrive at the ruins of "Castello di Ramici" one has to go by way of the Morre fountain. The path follows the old route that connected Lugnano with the Tiber valley, making it possible to roam over the surrounding countryside. On arrival at the spot on the banks of the river Tiber one finds the spring where the water (15 celsius) gushes forth pervading the air with the odour of sulphur. There is a project underway to make the sulphurous water available to the public.

A large basin divided by an artificial rivulet collects the water that gushes from the fountain. To enjoy the benefits of this water it is possible to immerse oneself in the water contained in the basin thanks also to a sanitary facilities block. There is a series of fenced wooden walkways around the basin that blend in perfectly with a nature trail that focuses attention on the typical vegetation of this area, one of the most beautiful of the Tiber valleys set between the banks of the river and the clayey badlands ("calanche") in the background. The facilities are completed with a parking area for cars and one for resting horses connected to a horse trekking route. This project will enable the public to use the water for its numerous remedial properties.

The Ramici waters are recognised as containing numerous properties. Many chronic ailments to the joints, bones and muscles are relieved by the therapeutic properties of this water. The anti-inflammatory properties of the "Castello di Ramici" water have been documented by several research studies. Thanks to these properties a number of skin ailments such as eczema and dermatitis as well as rheumatic problems can be greatly helped by bathing in this water. Healing properties to deal with any inflammation to the female genitalia and venous pathologies to the lower limbs have also been documented. If drunk, the depurative effect of this water on the digestive system, liver and bile ducts is not to be overlooked. We can confirm that this water is effective both to prevent and treat certain ailments and thereby augmenting the sense of general good health.

Capuchin Convent and Church

The Convent of San Antonio dei Cappuccini set on a hillock in the midst of a magnificent turkey oak wood dominates the view seen from the village. The convent was built through the voluntary work of the Lugnano population who took six years to complete its construction from 1573 to 1579. The Capuchins remained in Lugnano until 1928. Today, following its restoration, the Convent is used for tourist accommodation.